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How to Cut Chromaglow Pro Tracks

How to make basic, 90°, fascia, obtuse/acute, and peak cuts on Chromaglow Pro Tracks for clean installations

Emma Sheldon avatar
Written by Emma Sheldon
Updated over 2 weeks ago

Note: Cuts can be avoided by using corner pieces, but it’s worth knowing how to make these cuts nonetheless.

Video Guide:

Tools referenced

  • Red aviation shears

  • Green aviation shears

  • Linesman pliers with tape on the jaws (to help prevent paint scuffing when bending parts you’re keeping)

  • Speed square (rotate to the 30° marker for the 150° obtuse example)

  • Marker for layout lines and for X marks on waste pieces


Quick glossary

  • Flange: The bent edge of the track that you cut first for access.

  • Vertical/web: The upright face of the track that you cut after the flange.

  • Lip (fascia track): The interior lip that must be removed on one piece so the other can nest inside.

  • Ridge/hook (fascia track): The interior feature that the lights clip into. If it prevents a tight sit, crush it slightly with pliers so edges meet.


The Basic Cut (Hat Track)

Use this to cut the track at a desired point while keeping the finished edge clean.

Step-by-step

  1. Mark: Mark the cut location on the hat track.

  2. Relief cuts: Cut two small triangles out of the flanges. This creates clearance so the shears can enter for the vertical cut.

  3. Choose shears:

  • Keep left side → use red shears.

  • Keep right side → use green shears.

  1. Cut sequence:

  • Cut the flange.

  • Then cut the vertical/web cleanly.

  1. Final separation: Support with your thumb and bend so it breaks exactly at the mark. This yields a nice, clean edge without undesirable bending.

Checkpoint

  • Edge is straight and undistorted.

  • Break happened at the mark.


90° Corner Cut — Method 1 (Nesting notch)

Removes material from the first piece so the second piece can nest inside. Produces a clean look without gaps.

Layout

  1. Mark the area to remove on piece A so piece B can nest.

Cut sequence on piece A

  1. Cut the flange.

  2. Bend the flange back for clearance.

  3. Cut the vertical/web cleanly.

  4. Corner break: Use linesman pliers to bend back and forth until it breaks at the corner. Tape on plier jaws helps avoid scuffing if you need to bend a kept surface.

Fit

  1. Nest piece B into piece A and check the corner.

Checkpoint

  • Corner nests with no visible gap.

  • Kept surface shows no scuffing.


90° Corner Cut — Method 2 (Two 45° cuts with an offset tab)

Creates a small overlap tab to hide micro-gaps.

Layout

  1. Piece A: Mark a 45° cut line.

  2. Piece B: Mark a 45° line and an offset line 1/4 inch away. You will cut the offset line, not the first 45° line.

Cut sequence (repeat these fundamentals for each affected edge)

  1. Cut the flange.

  2. Bend the flange back for clearance.

  3. Cut the vertical/web cleanly.

  4. Break at the corner with linesman pliers as needed.

Form the tab and clearances

  1. On piece B, cut along the 1/4 inch offset line to create the tab.

  2. Trim the inside corners of the flanges so they don’t interfere when joining.

Join

  1. Bring pieces together so the tab overlaps the other track. The tab hides gaps and yields a very clean look.

Callout

  • Cut the OFFSET line on piece B, not the first 45° line.

Checkpoint

  • Overlap tab sits flat and covers any gap.

  • Flanges do not collide.


Fascia Track — Inside Corner Cut

Nests one fascia track inside the other by removing the inside lip on one piece.

Layout

  1. Mark the angle cut lines on both pieces.

  2. On one piece, also mark where to cut off the inside lip so the other can nest.

  3. Mark X’s on waste parts to prevent mistakes and to guide shear choice.

Cut sequence

  1. Cut the angle lines.

  2. On the designated piece, remove the inside lip and break it off with linesman pliers.

Fit and tune

  1. Put the tracks together. If the interior hook/ridge (where the lights clip) prevents a tight sit, use linesman pliers to crush it down slightly so the edges can meet.

Checkpoint

  • Viewed from the bottom, the joint is nice, clean, and without gaps.


Fascia Track — Outside Corner Cut

Only one track needs cutting; the other will nest inside.

Layout

  1. Mark the cut edges and angle lines on the piece to be cut. Draw X’s on the waste.

Cut sequence

  1. Begin cutting. The angle cut is the most difficult—cut deliberately.

  2. After removing the triangle, cut out the back surface as well. It’s okay to trim back a bit afterward if needed.

  3. Cut out the lip so the tracks can nest. Leave the bottom surface on this track.

Fit and finish

  1. Nest the tracks and test fit. Trim back one edge further if needed.

  2. Bottom handling (choose one):

  • Leave the entire bottom surface overlapped, or

  • Trim it back while leaving a 1/4 inch tab to cover any gaps.

Checkpoint

  • Outside corner looks clean after nesting.

  • Any necessary trimming completed; tab (if used) covers gaps.


Obtuse or Acute Angle Cut (example: 150° obtuse on hat track)

Same steps for both obtuse and acute. Example shows 150°.

Layout

  1. Mark where the outside corner will be on the track.

  2. Using the speed square, rotate to the 30° marker. 30° is from 180° − 150°.

  3. Mark the 30° reference line, then a parallel offset line about 1/4 inch away. This offset forms a tab to help cover gaps when joining.

Cut sequence

  1. Make relief cuts in the flanges.

  2. Cut along the marked lines, leaving the 1/4 inch offset tab in place.

  3. Trim off any sharp corners to improve fit.

Checkpoint

  • Tab remains intact and overlaps cleanly on assembly.

  • Joint presents a clean, professional obtuse angle.


The Peak Cut (12/12 pitch, approximately 45°)

Builds a seamless peak using a peak piece and two wings. The lights snapped into the track will hold the peak assembly in rigidly.

Parts

  • Main track

  • Peak piece

  • Two wings

Layout and optional spacing adjustment

  1. Center the peak location and draw lines across the track to outline the section to remove.

  2. Optionally remove an extra 1/4 inch on each side to move holes a little closer if the wire would otherwise be too short. The peak will be slightly closer to the next set of lights.

  3. Plan for a 12/12 pitch (about 45°). Mark what needs to be removed so the two edges can meet at the peak.

Cut sequence and handling

  1. Choose shears based on the keep side:

  • Keep left → red shears.

  • Keep right → green shears.

  1. Bend material out of the way for access.

  2. Make cuts up to the edges at about 45° and break off cleanly where needed.

Dry fit

  1. Place the peak piece into the opening.

  2. Slide the wings in so the two tracks meet at 45°. If there is a small gap, trim with the cutters. Some marks may be eyeballed; fine‑tuning is expected.

Extend to the bulb peak and square edges

  1. When peaking the bulb, extend the opening to reach it.

  2. Cut the flange off where needed and square edges so parts sit properly.

Final assembly

  1. Set the peak piece and wings.

  2. Snap the lights into place. The lights will hold the peak in. The assembly is quite rigid once the lights are snapped in.

  3. Screw the track through the flanges as normal after alignment.

Important layout note

  • For peaks, make your final marking and cutting on the actual roof to avoid ending up with a hole.

Checkpoint

  • Wings meet the main track at ~45° with no visible gap after trimming.

  • Peak piece sits fully, lights snap in, and the assembly feels rigid.


Quick reference: repeated fundamentals

  • Cut order when applicable: Cut flange → Bend back → Cut vertical/web → Break at corner (with pliers) → Test fit → Trim → Final fit.

  • Shear selection: Keep left side → red. Keep right side → green.

  • Gap control: Use a 1/4 inch offset tab (90° Method 2 and obtuse/acute example) to overlap and hide gaps.

  • Fascia nesting: Remove the inside lip on one track; crush the interior hook/ridge slightly if it prevents a tight sit.

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